January 6, 2001
The Southwest Chief (part 2 of 3)
I awoke in Garden City, Kansas, and noted with disappointment that there
was still snow on the ground. I hadn't seen the ground since December 29, and
the excitement that comes with the first snowfall had long since worn off.
New Mexican landscape
They sat me alone at breakfast. The waiter, the same one who had served
me at dinner, came over and asked questions about my trip.
"How long are you staying in Los Angeles?" he asked.
"Five days."
"Well, if you need a dinner date when you're there..."
I kind of laughed and changed the subject. I wasn't sure if he was being
cheeky or polite to an out-of-town stranger.
"Why," I asked, pointing to the menu, "does it say that French toast is a
Railroad Tradition?"
He had no idea, and changed the subject back to the prospect of a dinner
date.
We were then interrupted by a young man in his mid-twenties. He slid into
the seat across from me and ordered pancakes. I was relieved to have his
company, until he opened his mouth.
He was some sort of missionary, who was very excited to hear that I was
going to Australia. He lowered his voice.
"You know how Australia started, right?"
"Um, prison colony?" I answered, apprehensively.
"Right. I'd love to do missionary work there."
"It's been a long time since they were all criminals," I told him.
"Yeah, but it's still gotta be in them. It's in their blood."
"You know, GEORGIA was also a prison colony. Do you want to do missionary
work in Georgia?" I asked.
He stared at me blankly and said nothing. I went back to my French toast.
Laying my two dollar tip down, I fled for the safety-in-numbers of the
Sightseer Car.
Sightseeing car
The car had enormous picture windows, on the sides and the roof. I sat
down with a guy who works for the game show "Win Ben Stein's Money" in L.A.
We chatted and watched the broad plains of Kansas turn into Colorado and then
New Mexico. The snow was finally gone, replaced by the colorful landscape and
rock formations of Apache Canyon and Raton Pass. The train twisted through
the pass, so we could look back and see the cars behind us. I counted 20
before I gave up... only about seven of these were passenger-related. The
other cars carried mail. Amtrak would probably be bankrupt if it depended
solely on passenger fares to pay for its service. Its operations are financed
in part by the postal service.
I left the Southwest Chief for an overnight stay in Albuquerque, where I
stayed on Route 66 and wandered through Old Town.
Route 66, Albuquerque
NEXT: The Southwest Chief part 3